Big Bang Bar

[CraigC]

Anyone else notice you get a lot of glare off the backbox? more than other games? is it the bulb used or the translite?

Wondering about putting a film on the back of the translite, maybe with the tube dancers cut out so the flashers are nice and bright. This might also make the pinholes less noticable.

-c

[metallik]

Yea the glare sucks.. I've already pulled the tubes out of my RFM, Breakshot and Flipper Football... something will have to be done to BBB as well.

[irbgolfin]

Happy Sunday everyone!

The glare has been bugging me on several of my games, BBB included. I've been experimenting with polarizing film. If anyone is familiar with the Wible anti-glare film for DMDs, I believe it has the same properties, but it is thicker and has an adhesize backing. I purchased stuff that I believe is the same as his (compared one from him and one of these side by side and can't see a difference), and then got an alternative product that has the same properties. The "Wible" stuff is a little flimsy and gets waves, hard to get it to lay flat. The thicker stuff with adhesive eliminates the waves, if carefully applied. Also, the original stuff he used wasn't big enough for a backglass.

A few weeks ago I tried it on my AFM, looked great. Today I added it to BBB, both translight and DMD. You can see the whole upper playfield as you play. It does reduce the light transmitted, and when the game is off you see less, but it plays much better, IMHO. My games are in a basement that's dark, and the reduced light is not a problem for me, not sure if it might be for others. Also, totally reversible. Only comment was the slight thickness addition was enough to make the translight a little snug.

I took before and after pics, though they don't show the greatest, I think you can see the difference. I can send them to anyone who's interested, or if enough interest perhaps I could send them to Robert and he'd post/host them?!?!

Bernie

[harrrrrrr]

Search "translight question" in this area, general discussions. I am using a pinballpal.com warming filter and very happy with the results. Mark Clayton of Pinballpal also makes the flipper button clear protectors and start button protector which I have also put on my BBB. I actually, worked with Mark to size the start button protector perfectly. His standard start button protector did not fit BBB that well... the BBB one is perfect. Also, in getting the sizing right I had to remove the original start button protector that had been applied for a week or more... came off perfectly. His stuff is great and I am using some of his playfield protector film also. Some think it is too thick but I don't notice any problem with it and its nice knowing it is very easily removable. Likely won't last as long as mylar on the playfield but easily replace... "I like that". If you get his flipper protectors you'll want to either lift the side rails when applying the "hole cut" version or trim the top edge by about a 1/16 or 1/32 inch to get a better fit above the button... I didn't do either of these and mine are slightly folded a tiny bit towards the side rail but work fine and look fine. I really like Mark's stuff... it's on all my games.

John
_________________
No. 7 arrrrrrr

[waltr]

I have to agree with John,
I used all of Marks products on my BBB also.
His protectirs are great.I use them on all of my machines and the flourescent tube filters work quite well.I'm using 2 layers in mine,but a 3rd couldn't hurt.
_________________
BBB#12

[irbgolfin]

Thanks for the info John,

Yes, I've seen the other thread, debated posting there. Part of my interest was in handling other machines without flourescent lights and also DMDs, so I've been pursuing the polarizing route. The Wible stuff was an improvement but didn't cut it for me. Can't compare the two options since I haven't seen that, but for me this works, and just thought I'd offer to share pics and part info if anyone was interested. My arcade is pretty dark, in the basement, one small window with a shade, and a couple of neon lights. Usually leave the overhead lights off. Most of the light comes from the game itself, and glare on the playfield glass from the DMD and backglass obscures games enough to be an issue for me. The pics I took without a flash are slightly blurred, but they provide some comparison. You'd really to have to see it in person to appreciate it, I think.

Bernie

[robertwinter]

[harrrrrrr]

Bernie,

It sounds like the polarizing film you are using is continuous adhesive backed film... is that correct? Do you think it will remove easily from the DMD and translight glass? Also, could you give us your source for the film? Might want to add the film to my DMD and also might experiment with the translight on a couple of games.

I have a gameroom in the downstairs part of our house as well. Little ambient light with overhead lighting. I find that positioning the BBB between the overheads to avoid glare from the overhead lights works well. I find I can play and enjoy the game more with the lights on... it would be nice to see a mod to give additional lighting in the back of the playfield.

John

John

[irbgolfin]

That's right John.

The basic story is I picked up a couple of the Wible films for DMD. They are rolled up, he cut them "just right", so scotch tape is visible when installed, and it is difficult/impossible to get them to lie flat. When pin is off, you notice the waves, when on, they're tough to see. While not perfect, it was enough of an improvement that I dug into it deeper.

Next, I found a source (suggested on RGP), and purchased some of what was believed to be the same stuff.
www.polarization.com

Go to polarizing film, enter shop, and it's the first entry, PF006. I believe this is the exact stuff Wible used. I cut them a little larger and used on some DMDs (actually back of clear plastic covering DMD). But the 17" limit prevents them from covering the backglass. Also, waves still there.

Next step was to get a different product from the same place. It is a 24 X 40 inch sheet, with adhesive, thicker than the flimsy stuff but virtually same properties. It goes for $120 a sheet, which will do 1 backglass and 2 DMDs.

The adhesive is something like scotch tape, maybe a little stronger (the thickness of the film it is definitely stronger than scotch tape!), but once you put it on something the size of a backglass, I expect it will take some work to pull it off. But I believe it's reversible with a little cleaning, one of the reasons I used it. The adhesive helps it lay flat. We put it on with 2 people, a hand at each corner, stretch taught, once we started it on we used a straight edge to avoid wrinkles. On the DMD, you also have the option of applying it to the back of the clear plastic piece instead of the DMD if you prefer. Cheaper piece to replace if it ends up being difficult to clean, which I doubt.

Any way, bought 1 at first to try on my AFM, liked it well enough that I got more.

As always, YMMV, I'm sure personal preferences and varying room installations will lead to differing opinions.

I've got several pins left to do, and I'll be out of town for 10-12 days starting Friday. One thought I have - I am going to have some extra flimsy stuff when I remove them from DMDs (I may have 1 cut down to size now for a DMD, I know I have a larger piece that could be cut down that's not on a DMD). Some may find this acceptable for DMDs, and even if you want to just check out the anti-glare properties, you can scotch tape it to the front of the clear plastic cover to judge the affect before investing in the adhesive sheet.

At any rate, that is just a thought here early this morning, in case anyone is seriously interested in trying this out.

Big caveat - once done my backglass was snug going on! The trim pieces are a little tougher to get on, and they stretched enough that it was tight. Didn't have that on my AFM, and based on how things feel on most other pins I don't expect it to be a problem. I plan to add this on most of my pins, exceptions are SS and NGG (NGG has a painted backglass, afraid it would pull the paint off with it when removed - I did scotch tape some of the flimsy stuff behind, it's not as effective, but still an improvement and reversible).

And 1 more observation, it works best when viewed head on, from the player perspective. When you're off to the side, the directionality isn't there, and you will see more.

Maybe way more than you wanted to know, but that's my core dump here this morning. Questions? Have a good day everyone!

Bernie

[harrrrrrr]

Bernie,

Thanks for all the detail... enjoyed hearing the whole story. I suck as a player... so I am always tinkering with the machines. Will be fun to look at the stuff. Thanks again for the email note and have a great vacation.

John

[metallik]

You can "fix" NGG by taking about two thirds of the bulbs out of the translite insert. Darkens it nicely and cuts down on heat and current draw.