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RatherPlayPinball
Joined: 15 Aug 2005 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:51 pm Post subject: More Adjustments |
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Went from hardly a poster to a few in two days.
- Still having ball hangups in the area behind the single drop target (underground). Ball goes in, takes a severe shake (tilt) to get it to come out. I dread taking that whole area apart.
- I can see mylar needed for the two rail ball drops. Already have dents after less than a dozen games.
- Is there a way to turn off the buy-in feature after a game? Didn't see a menu-adjustment item on it.
Tnx
Jack #58 |
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bbb96
Joined: 02 Aug 2005 Posts: 11 Location: Saginaw, MI
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Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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Turn Off Buy In Feature:
Adjustments | Coinage | Allow Buy In = No
- Jeff _________________ Big Bang Bar #96 |
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hisnice
Joined: 03 Aug 2005 Posts: 19
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Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:04 pm Post subject: mylar! |
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Thanks for beating me to it.
I was going to ask about protecting the playfield under the ball drops. What do I use and where do i get it?
And I've already got a tiny chip in front of the scoop. Did anyone make hole protectors yet?
If anyone is going to market any protectors or anything to help keep BBB pristine, please contact me
h |
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RatherPlayPinball
Joined: 15 Aug 2005 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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BALL TRAP FIXED - And Other Adjustments
As posted, ball would enter area behind Underground drop target and not emerge. Two adjustments fixed this. First, you have to remove all screws that hold the top plastic area down, this requires partial removal of short rail. (No big deal) Then you can swing the plastic out of your way and get to items underneath. Loosen screw at top holding curved metal rail down so you can adjust. The ball was hanging on the switch leading out of the area. By moving rail a little up, increased angle. Replace everything. Second, adjusted the switch it was hanging on so that the little metal wire part of the switch is not rubbing as much against the playfield. Switch moves freely, ball doesn't stick/hang there.
I found a couple of other switches mounted so the wire was rubbing against wood, adjusted those.
Added the clear washers to many points in game to protect plastic corners. 1" washers to the slings, and 7/8" washers to other places where a little overhanging protection might save plastics from cracking. Added switch foam to the back of the two green targets to help them. They still work just fine.
Leveled game, 6.5" incline, really nice and snappy. Higher scores are much easier now.
Still to do: mylar dots where balls land on playfield from ramps, mylar protection on cabinet near flipper switches to protect cabinet artwork.
Maybe I'll take pics and post this weekend.
Jack #58 |
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BBB94
Joined: 02 Aug 2005 Posts: 407 Location: WI, USA
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Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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I'd guess that about 1/3rd to 1/2 of my switches were rubbing the sides or bent such that a ball trying to go the reverse slowly might hang - an easy and standard adjustment.
Instead of mylar for around the flipper buttons, may I suggest "cling vinyl" which does not use or need any adhesive. It can be hard to find. One supplier is www.mcgpaper.com, 215-679-8163.
Last edited by BBB94 on Tue Jun 05, 2007 7:21 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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jadziedzic
Joined: 02 Aug 2005 Posts: 151 Location: Nashua, NH USA
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Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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Also check out the Pinball Pal "stealth" cabinet protectors and playfield protectors. Low-tack adhesive which can be removed without damage.
(www.pinballpal.com).
Tony _________________ Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic
BBB #39 |
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awarner
Joined: 02 Aug 2005 Posts: 558 Location: Atlanta, GA
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Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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jadziedzic wrote: | Also check out the Pinball Pal "stealth" cabinet protectors and playfield protectors. Low-tack adhesive which can be removed without damage.
(www.pinballpal.com).
Tony |
I installed these tonight. They look great and are pretty invisible.
-Al- _________________ Pins and Vids #4 - A New Hoax DVD, Available NOW at www.pinsandvids.com for only $12.00 plus shipping. |
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RatherPlayPinball
Joined: 15 Aug 2005 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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Issue: Playfield glass very tight. Difficult to remove or install. Fix: Turns out it was not the glass, it was the proper size/dimensions. The side rails are held to the cabinet with three screws/nuts. Once the rail is removed, the plastic molding/rail is revealed. Turns out, if you over tighten the rail to the cabinet, it pushes the plastic molding over a little bit, thus creating a rub for the glass. Using a rubber mallet, gently tapped the plastic molding back into it's position. Then reinstalled the metal side rails, and did not over tighten. Glass now moves freely like it should.
Issue: Left outlane ball saver would fire prematurely, thus allowing ball to drain. Fix: Lift playfield, using needlenose pliers gently bend the wire switch just a little so that it does not stick up as high. This gives helps with timing of switch activation / kickback firing. I guess if your game is pitched more, you might need to make the adjustment the other way.
Issue: Head cabinet hold for wing bolt not aligned with matching hole/nut so that wing bolt can be installed. Fix: Lay head down on cabinet for easy access to underside of head cabinet. Placed cloth down on top of playfield to catch sawdust. Using a larger drill bit, increased size of hole. (Be careful no wires inside cabinet can be snagged by drill.) Raise head, now wing bolt can be installed securing head to body.
Enjoy -
Jack #58 |
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