Big Bang Bar

[BigBangJoe]

I remember that someone once wrote a very long post about how correct the colors on the playfield were compared to the Pantone color numbers specified by the designer/artist. I always forget names and faces so I don't remember who it was.

I cannot find that post anymore, so I suspect it was originally posted on the Bearcave forum?

What I actually want to know: is there a way to convert the Pantone color into a non-proprietary format so I can use it to mix paint/Photoshop/whatever? I have googled for this, but it seems that such a conversion tool doesn't exist. I'm especially interested in the fluorescent green (but without the fluo effect obviously), and the dark purple on the side art.

Or maybe there's a method that I can do myself, for example using a good digital camera or a scanner or...?

I don't know much about this, so any help is appreciated.

thanks,
Joe

[jadziedzic]

Here's a good starting point: http://www.pinballpal.com/colors/colorcue.php

It describes how to use a Pantone "ColorCue" device to determine (among other things) the actual color (in sRGB, iLab, etc. formats). That's probably the most accurate approach you could use, lacking the actual Pantone PMS color information.

I've seen ColorCues sell for about $100 on eBay (that's where I got mine). If you send me a list of a few colors you'd like me to measure I can do that for you.

Tony
_________________
Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic
BBB #39

[BBB93]

[pinsane]

I also had a post on the Bearcave forum on this subject, and mentioned some pantone differences from the artist's specifications here:

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/msg/200a3acbf963b7f7

The pinball pal website references another amazing site that will help you convert your pantone code (or rgb value) to paint codes:

http://easyrgb.com/matching.php

steve SDTM

[BBB94]

Here is the Pantone info that I have compiled:

Red=032C
Purple=269C
Dark Blue=3015C
Light Blue=312C
Light Green=802U
Yellow=Yellow C
Black=Process Black (C?)
White=(process?)White (C?)
Dark Green~334C (50% light green and 50% dark blue?)

The RGB and CMYK conversions for these vary widely from source to source. Although I tried to get close conversions for a while, I gave up since I didn't have to get too close, since in the end the vendors would be using the "spot" Pantone colors.

Tony, if you have the time and inclination I'd love a Color Cue readings for all the cabinet colors - the ones listed in my above list. I'd also be curious about the reading it shows for the yellow/red half-tone orange in the logo.

If anyone is doing anything that "requires" you getting a real close color match consider getting a monitor and printer calibration kit/system like the ColorVision PrintFix Pro 2 Suite:
http://www.colorvision.com/product-pp-pfps.php
$350 (after rebate ending 7/31/07) from:
http://www.calibration-direct.com/prodprintfixsuitepro.html

Pantone also makes calibration products.

[BBB94]

Here are some conversion sites that I found and had been using. Some of the colors seem to be way off, like a Pantone blue might be shown as brown, etc. Nothing even close to all the available colors are listed, but its a start.

I think this was the (overall) most accurate site:
http://www.logoorange.com/color/color-codes-chart.php

This one I wasn't too impressed with, but I didn't have the time I would have liked to really figure things out back when I was looking into this before:
http://blog.indika.net.id/html-color-codes-matching-chart-pantone-cmyk-rgb-hex/

If you find these useful you should save them as Pantone seems pretty protective of this type of info - some other sites have been shut down.

Also, in my original post above I'm pretty sure the C stands for Coated and U stands for uncoated. I've never researched what the real difference is between the coated and uncoated Pantone colors

[BigBangJoe]

Thanks a LOT for all the detailed and useful information